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AGREEMENT |
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This document
is available for public use for the installation of a peltier cooling
system.
Some of the materials and processes used in
these instructions may be hazardous if used/followed improperly
and you will not hold GruntvillE.com. responsible for any damages
that may result.
If you disagree with the above statement please do not continue.
If you agree with this statement simply get started with the below
steps.
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BEFORE
YOU START |
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The purpose
of these instructions is to provide a guide for the installation
of a peltier based liquid cooled system. The guide will show you
how to prevent condensation that can occur with this type of system
and other helpful tips. Before you start the installation of the
ioFreeze please do the following:
- Read the
instructions vary carefully a few times before you do anything
else. Study and place close attention to each step to prevent
damage to your PC.
- Verify that
you have all of the "correct" materials. It may be
easy to mistake one item for another. The RTV silicon for example,
there are many types of silicon, make sure you have the correct
kind.
- During each
step take a moment to step back and make sure you completed it
correctly. It's hard to check your work after you've completed
a number of steps, so make sure you do it correctly the first
time.
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MATERIALS |
Most
of the components can be found at pcmutants.com.
- Motherboard.
In this case a ASUS A7V266-E
- CPU. In this
case a Athlon XP 1800 +
- Neoprene
bundle of varying thickness
- Conformal
coating
- RTV silicon
adhesive sealant
- Dielectric
grease
- 1 piece of
printer paper
- Copper waterblock
with 156W peltier and nylon mounting hardware
- Peltier power
supply
- Radiator/fan
assembly
- Water pump
- 1/2 gallon
Distilled Water
- Water Wetter
- 3/8 inch
ID (inside diameter) Hose
- Hose clamps
- 1 Nylon hose "T"
- 1 Nylon hose "elbow"
- Sharp scissors
- Exacto knife
- Sharpy marker
You'll notice
no reservoir is used in this guide. A feed line is sufficient for
storing extra fluid, less likely to cause leaks or spills, and takes
up less room. It would be easy to incorporate one if you desire.
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STEP
1 |
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Coat
the bottom of the motherboard directly below the CPU socket covering
all of the socket pins and all of the area under the socket with
conformal coating. Allow to dry and repeat if any of the pins are
not completely covered. This will prevent any condensation on the
back of the motherboard. Some people will put a layer of neoprene
between the motherboard and the case directly under the CPU. I found
this not to be necessary.
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STEP
2 |
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Coat
the whole area in the center of the CPU socket with conformal coating
and allow to dry. One coating is plenty.
IMPORTANT:
While the coating is drying move the socket lever up and down periodically
to prevent the socket from getting glued open or shut from the coating.
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STEP
3 |

Cut
out a piece of neoprene and fit it flush in the center of the
CPU socket. Make sure that it's not too thick for the CPU to fit
completely into the socket. If your motherboard has a thermistor
sticking up from the center of the socket, cut a slit into the
neoprene and poke the thermistor through it.
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STEP
4 |
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Install
the CPU (unlocked of course) and cut two strips of neoprene that
run along the sides of the CPU socket on top of the four mounting
holes. Try to make this a snug fit to keep the neoprene in place
for the steps that follow.
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STEP
5 |
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Flip the motherboard
over and mark the mounting holes on the neoprene with the Sharpy
marker.
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STEP
6 |
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Remove
the two neoprene strips and poke a small screw driver or something
equivalent threw the neoprene where the holes are marked.
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STEP
7 |
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If
the peltier is not mounted between the water block and cold plate
already, go ahead and mount it. Make sure and use thermal grease.
After mounting, verify that the cold side of the peltier is on the
cold plate and the hot side on the water block. You can do this
by simply applying power to the peltier. If you do have the sides
reversed you can swamp the polarity of the input volage to correct
it.
Pot
the water block gaps where the peltier sits with RTV silicon adhesive.
Run a bead of RTV completely around the gap. Ice can build up if
this gap is not filled and will push its way out from the gap until
the surrounding insulation is bulging. This will cause water run
off when the system is turned off.
A very
thin layer of silicon spread completely over the cold block except
where the CPU die makes contact will also help with ice build up
and condensation tremendously. Please make sure your CPU die makes
direct contact with the bare copper on the cold plate.
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STEP
8 |
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Insulate
the top of the Athlon XP CPU by putting dielectric grease over the
entire surface of the top side of the CPU except for where the die
is. The layer should be slightly below (paper thickness) the height
of the die. Then cut a piece of paper out that's the same size as
the processor with a hole cut out where the die will fit through.
Place the paper over the layer of grease to keep the grease intact
during installation and removal. Make sure that the paper is not
obstructing the top of the die in any way. If you try insulating
the top of the XP processor with neoprene it will be too thick and
prevent the cold block from making proper (if any) contact with
the die.
If
your CPU is a P4, 1/16" thick neoprene will work just fine.
The die is higher and there are no top mounted components to worry
about.
Now
pack dielectric grease in the pin holes of the CPU socket and install
the CPU back into the motherboard.
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STEP
9 |
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Thread
the four nylon rods into the bottom of the cold block and push the
two strips of neoprene onto them. Make sure you put the correct
strip on the correct side.
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STEP
10 |
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Put
a thin layer of thermal grease on top of the CPU die and place the
water block onto the motherboard pushing the nylon rods through
the mounting holes. Double check that the neoprene is snug with
the CPU socket.
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STEP
11 |
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Fasten
the block to the motherboard as shown. Leave the springs a little
shy of being fully compressed. When done make sure that your CPU
is making good contact with the cold plate. I can not express the
importance of this step enough.
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STEP
12
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Cut
the extra length off of the nylon rods.
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STEP
13 |
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Cut
out more neoprene and fit it snugly around the exposed area of the
water block. Keep it in place with some tie wraps or silicon adhesive.
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STEP
14 |
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Mount
the radiator fan assembly in the bottom 5 1/4" drive bay. Keep
a bay space open above and below the assembly to ensure proper air
flow. We switched from using the all copper radiator/fan assembly
to a 4" x 8-1/2" Low Pressure Drop Radiator/2 delta fan
assembly. This assembly has better cooling ability and is quieter
(even with two fans!).
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STEP
15 |
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Mount
the peltier power supply and pump to the bottom of the PC case and
connect the hose as shown. Although a different radiator is shown
here the connections should be the same.
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STEP
16 |
This
step is for the peltier power supply only!
Unplug the PC if it isn't already and wire the peltier power supply
and water pump AC input lines directly to the rocker switch of the
PC power supply. Plug the 12V connector from the peltier power supply
into the connector on your peltier. Keep your system on a surge protector
with a trip fuse.
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STEP
17 |
With
the PC still unplugged, fill the hose with a 70% distilled water and
30% water wetter mix. Top off and plug the feed line.
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STEP
18 |
Install
a temperature sensor on the cold plate. Simply slide the thermistor
along the side of the water block until it touches the cold plate.
The neoprene will hold it in place. Finish setting up the rest of
your computer hardware and power up the cooling system by flipping
the PC power supply rocker switch. When the cold plate temperature
sensor reads 0°C hit the PC power button and have fun thermal
accelerating. Check your feed line every couple of weeks or so and
refill it as needed.
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